Every June, riders ask us the same question: can we still ride Nepal in monsoon? For most of the country, the answer is no, trails are waterlogged, leechy, and dangerous. But Mustang is different. It always has been.
Lying north of the main Himalayan range, Mustang sits in a geographic rain shadow. While Pokhara receives 3,000mm of rain between June and September, Lo Manthang receives fewer than 300mm. The trails stay dry. The skies stay blue. And they're entirely yours.
July and August are our favourite months in Mustang. The light is extraordinary, wildflowers are out, and there are no other riders. It's the best-kept secret in Himalayan MTB. Tours here cover both Upper Mustang and Lower Mustang .
Why the Monsoon Can Be Good in Mustang
Conventional wisdom holds that Nepal's October to November and March to April windows are the main mountain biking seasons. For most destinations, that is true. Mustang works differently.
Not everyone can travel during Nepal’s peak seasons, and July and August can provide an excellent alternative for riders who have enough time and flexibility.
During the main riding seasons, the Kali Gandaki trail north of Jomsom can see jeep traffic, large trekking groups and other mountain bike operators. During June, July and August, visitor numbers are much lower.
There is less traffic on the trails, teahouses are quieter and the villages feel less busy. Teahouse owners often have more time to sit and talk, and riders can experience the region without the regular flow of peak-season groups.
The small amount of moisture that reaches Mustang also changes the landscape. Wildflowers appear along the trails and on the high passes between settlements. The valleys become greener, while the dry cliffs and high-altitude desert remain the dominant features of the region.
The Risk Versus the Reward
A monsoon trip to Mustang comes with a clear trade-off.
Once you reach Mustang, riding conditions are often dry and stable. The main risk is getting there and returning through the wetter areas south of the Himalaya.
The roads between Pokhara, Beni, Tatopani and Jomsom pass through steep terrain. Heavy rain can cause landslides, road damage, temporary closures and long traffic delays. A journey that normally takes one day can take considerably longer.
This does not mean the trip is unsafe or impossible. It means the schedule must remain flexible.
The Risks
Possible disruptions include:
- Landslides along the access road
- Temporary road closures
- Long waits while roads are cleared
- Delays entering or leaving Mustang
- Changes to the planned riding schedule
- Domestic flight delays or cancellations
- Muddy conditions around Tatopani and the lower valleys
The Rewards
For riders who accept those risks, the rewards can be significant:
- Far fewer people on the trails
- Less jeep traffic than during peak season
- Quiet villages and teahouses
- Green valleys and summer wildflowers
- Warmer daytime riding conditions
- More time to experience the journey rather than rushing through it
- Upper Mustang’s trails and landscapes without the peak-season crowds
Monsoon Mustang is best approached as slow travel.
It suits riders who can add buffer days, accept delays and adjust plans when required. The journey is part of the experience, and there is little value in trying to force a strict schedule when weather and road conditions have other plans.
For riders with limited holiday time, fixed international flights or important commitments immediately after the trip, monsoon may not be the best time to ride Mustang.
A delayed road journey can remove a day from the itinerary or require an additional night in Pokhara, Tatopani or Jomsom. Riders should arrive with enough time to deal with these changes without turning the trip into a race against the calendar.
Monsoon Conditions at a Glance
Rainfall in Upper Mustang
Upper Mustang sits within the Himalayan rain shadow and receives far less monsoon rain than Pokhara and the lower valleys.
Trail surface
Most riding inside Upper Mustang remains hardpack, loose-over-rock and dry high-altitude terrain. Short muddy or wet sections are still possible after local rain.
Temperature
Daytime temperatures at riding altitude are generally warmer than during the spring and autumn seasons. Conditions can still become cold at night and during changes in weather.
Jeep traffic
Traffic is normally lower than during the main spring and autumn trekking seasons.
Visitor numbers
There are fewer trekkers, riders and organised groups.
Teahouses
Teahouses continue to operate, although availability and services should be confirmed as part of the trip planning.
Access roads
Roads south of Mustang may be affected by rain, landslides, roadworks and temporary closures.
Permits Do Not Change
One common misconception is that Upper Mustang permits are cheaper or easier to obtain during monsoon. They are not.
The Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit costs USD $50 per person per day. An Annapurna Conservation Area Permit is also required.
The restricted permit fee remains the same regardless of the season.
Himalayan Single Track handles the permit process so that riders arrive with the required documents in place.
What Does Change: Access
Access is the main difference when travelling to Mustang during monsoon.
Pokhara receives heavy summer rain, even when conditions farther north are dry. This can affect flights, roads and the time needed to reach Jomsom.
Flights between Pokhara and Jomsom are weather dependent. Cloud, visibility and changing mountain conditions can cause delays or cancellations. Monsoon schedules may also be more limited.
For this reason, we generally prefer travelling overland rather than relying entirely on the flight.
The drive gives us more control, but it is not immune to delays. Landslides and road damage can temporarily close sections between Pokhara and Jomsom. In some cases, vehicles may need to wait while machinery clears the road.
We include buffer time in our monsoon planning and recommend keeping an additional night available in Pokhara at the end of the trip.
Pokhara during monsoon is green, quieter than usual and not always as hot as people expect. An extra day there is rarely wasted.
HST Monsoon Itinerary Adjustments
Our monsoon itineraries are planned differently from peak-season departures.
Adjustments can include:
- Buffer time before and after the Mustang section
- Overland access instead of relying on the Pokhara to Jomsom flight
- Early morning starts
- Flexible riding distances
- Alternative overnight stops if roads are delayed
- Jeep support for luggage and extra equipment
- Additional time between the end of the ride and international flights
Morning riding is generally preferred. Mustang’s strong valley winds often build during the afternoon, regardless of the season.
A rigid itinerary does not work well in monsoon. The plan needs enough flexibility to respond to current road, weather and trail conditions.
The Final Ride to Tatopani
The final day descending towards Tatopani can be very different from the dry riding farther north.
As riders leave the rain shadow, the landscape becomes greener and the trails become wetter. During heavy monsoon conditions, sections of the route can be excessively muddy.
This final stage can involve deep puddles, slippery surfaces and mud covering both riders and bikes. It is a clear reminder that you have left the dry Mustang landscape and returned to the full Nepal monsoon.
By the time the group reaches Tatopani, everyone may be covered in mud.
Tatopani means “hot water” in Nepali, and the village is known for its natural hot springs. After a wet and muddy final ride, the hot pools are a welcome finish to the journey.
Bikes need a proper wash and inspection after the stage, while riders can clean up and recover in the warm water.
It is not the cleanest finish to a mountain bike trip, but it is often one of the most memorable.
Gear for Monsoon Mustang
Monsoon Mustang is generally warmer than spring riding at the same altitude.
You will not normally need the same level of heavy insulation required in March. However, Mustang remains a high-altitude environment, and conditions can change quickly.
A light mid layer and waterproof shell are still necessary. Evenings in Lo Manthang can be cold, while daytime riding between approximately 3,000 and 3,800 metres can feel warm in direct sunlight.
Recommended equipment includes:
- Waterproof shell
- Light insulating layer
- Quick-drying riding clothing
- Waterproof bag or dry bags for important equipment
- Warm gloves for high passes and early starts
- Eye protection
- Sun protection
- Spare brake pads
- Suitable tyres for loose and occasionally muddy terrain
- Chain lubricant for changing trail conditions
- Spare clothing for the lower, wetter stages
The waterproof shell is not only for riding in Mustang. It is particularly important during the road journey through Pokhara, Beni, Tatopani and the lower Kali Gandaki Valley.
Who Is Monsoon Mustang Best For?
Monsoon Mustang suits riders who:
- Have enough time to include buffer days
- Are comfortable with changes to the itinerary
- Prefer quieter trails and villages
- Want to avoid peak-season traffic
- Understand that road delays are possible
- Enjoy a slower and less predictable style of travel
- Do not need to rush directly from the trip to an international flight
It may not suit riders who:
- Have a very limited holiday window
- Need every stage to run on a fixed schedule
- Have an international flight immediately after the trip
- Are uncomfortable with road delays or itinerary changes
- Want guaranteed access at a specific time
- Do not want to ride through mud on the lower final stages
Is Monsoon Mustang Worth It?
For the right rider, yes.
Monsoon Mustang is one of our favourite tours at Himalayan Single Track, not despite the season, but because of what the season changes.
July and August provide quieter trails, less traffic, warmer riding temperatures and a different side of the Mustang landscape.
The trade-off is uncertainty on the access roads. Landslides, road closures and delays are possible, particularly between Pokhara and Jomsom. The final section towards Tatopani may also be very muddy.
This is not the best trip for someone trying to fit Mustang into a tightly controlled schedule.
It is a trip for riders who have the time to travel slowly, accept changes and experience the journey as it happens.
Arrive with flexibility, allow additional days and expect some mud on the way out. In return, you may experience one of the world’s great mountain bike destinations with very few other people on the trails.
Upper Mustang Enduro
Upper Mustang XC
Ultimate Lower Mustang Enduro
EBiking in Lower Mustang
